Do any of these photos
look similar to your building?
Contact us if you
need help with damp - 01626 872886 .
We are long term
members of the PCA - The Property
Care Association - the professional body for the Damp Proofing industry
and our Dampness Surveyors have over 50 years of experience between
them.
Want Help
choosing a Contractor - E: Mail us at help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
Chemical Injection
above a perfectly good slate damp proof course - not
necessary
Chemical Damp Proof
Courses are usually injected into holes varying in diameter from 10mm
to 22mm.
Sometimes these holes have
been injected several times over the years,l or new rows of holes have
been drilled. Note the thicker mortar line where the original damp proof
course is sitting - the loss of surface mortar is not significant and
does not mean that the DPC is damaged - this can simply be repointed.
Also note the blue/black
Engineering Bricks below the original DPC - these are very hard and
tough and do not readily absorb water. There should be no need in this
case to insert a new damp proof course.
Check the source of your
damp for yourself - it is not difficult - click
here
See our Article about installing
different types of Damp Proof Course - click
here.
See our Shop for damp proofing
pumps and equipment - click
here
For help
with installation methods and rules call our experts on 01626 872886 .
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was caused
by raised external ground levels or a water leak from a drain, a water
main, a foul water pipe or a central heating pipe. We will help you
or your Builder/Plumber to find the cause.
The solution is:
Lower the ground level, or
find and fix the leak(s), remove the indoor plaster (if damaged) and
fit our Mesh Membrane - then replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed
for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Wall stain that is
wet - not natural rising damp: it is entirely man-made
Below - Man Made Rising Damp
- water leak
Before spending money on
one go to our Diagnosis page and check the source of your damp for yourself
- we don't mind explaining - click
here
For help
with the causes of damp call our experts on 01626 872886 .
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was not
Natural at all, but was caused by raised external ground levels or a
water leak from a drain, a water main, a foul water pipe or a central
heating pipe. We will help you or your Builder/Plumber to find the cause.
The solution is:
Lower the ground level, or
find and fix the leak(s), remove the indoor plaster (if damaged) and
fit our Mesh Membrane - then replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed
for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Tide line with staining
- not natural rising damp, does not require injection
Typical example
- yes the damp is rising, but it is not natural ground dampness
A water leak will be found
next door - in this case, a leaking Main.
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was not
Natural at all, but was caused by a water leak from a drain, a water
main, a foul water pipe or a central heating pipe. Do not rule out leaks
being from a neighboring property or road. Always look inside neighboring
properties to be safe. We will help you or your Builder/Plumber to find
the cause.
The solution is:
Find and fix the leak(s),
remove the indoor plaster (if damaged) and fit our Mesh Membrane - then
replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
White salts pushing
off the plaster, paper or paint - not natural rising
damp, does not require chemical injection
Below - severe salts damage,
plaster will not recover.
This damage requires the
plaster to be hacked off completely.
(Note - the degree of repellence
shown is hugely optimistic because damp continues to rise up to the
new DPC.)
Don't spend money yet - go
to our Diagnosis page and check your damp for yourself - you have nothing
to lose - click
here
For help
with how damp proof courses work call our experts on 01626 872886 .
The answer is usually:
That the salts will never
dry out, even when the moisture source is removed. Some of them absorb
moisture from the air - they are said to be 'hygroscopic'.
Replastering or rendering,
or Tanking with liquids over salts will always fail.
The solution is:
Lower the ground level, or
find and fix the leak(s), remove the indoor plaster to bare brick/stone,
apply Salt Neutraliser and then fit our Mesh Membrane - then replaster.
A Guaranteed result - guaranteed for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Damp wall in a
modern house fitted with plastic DPC and DPM - does
not require injection
Below - modern house, internal
water leak.
This problem in a modern
house NEVER requires to use of Tanking liquids, or the installation
of a new Damp Proof Course.
Before spending money check
your damp for yourself - we'll help you for free - click
here
For help
with types of damp proofing fluids and creams and where to use them
call our experts on 01626 872886 .
Raised
ground levels don't matter -
yes they do
Below - concrete yard level
too high relative to the damp proof course and Air Brick.
This will cause rain water
splash up to penetrate the wall causing damp inside.
The answer is:
Building Regulations stipulate
that ground levels should be at least 6 inches - 150mm - below the level
of the damp proof course to prevent the lateral penetration of (rainwater
splash up) dampness through the walls into the plaster and skirting
boards.
The solution is:
Ideally lower the ground
level, or, if that is not feasible, remove the indoor plaster and fit
our Mesh Membrane - then replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed
for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Internal walls
are damp - these do not require chemical injection
In reality, walls that have
no external outside face (said to be' internal' walls) are never likely
to need damp proof injection - because they are never likely to suffer
from natural rising damp.
Internal walls are most likely
to suffer from water leaks under the floor - mains water, sewage (but
note - there is unlikely to be a smell due to the filtering effect of
the soil), or central heating leaks. Check all these systems first -
see our Water Leak Testing section - click
here.
If the internal wall is a
shared wall (Party Wall) go next door and ask to see the matching area
- the source may not be under your house.
Your House Insurance may
cover the cost of repair - check your Insurance Excess and call the
Insurer to advise them of the probable leak. Take lots of dated photographs
as evidence.
Don't waste money on internal
walls - go to our Diagnosis page and check your damp for yourself -
save your money - click
here
For help
with types of damp proofing fluids and creams and where to use them
call our experts on 01626 872886 .
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was caused
by a water leak from a drain, a water main, a foul water pipe or a central
heating pipe. We will help you or your Builder/Plumber to find the cause.
The solution is:
Find and fix the leak(s),
remove the indoor plaster (if damaged) and fit our Mesh Membrane - then
replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Cavity walls suffer
from natural rising damp - no, but they can be partially
blocked
Walls that have a cavity
(usually in older houses about 1 inch - 25mm wide, but up to 4 inches
- 100mm in modern houses) between the inner and outer bricks or blocks,
however small that cavity is, are never likely to need damp proof injection
- because they are never likely to suffer from natural rising damp.
A clean cavity gives good air flow between the walls and even if outside
ground levels are a little high ('bridging' due to rainwater splash
up) the evaporation inside the cavity will ensure that dampness does
not travel through the inner leaf to spoil decorations.
Cavity walls are most likely
to suffer from debris in the cavity or damp cavity insulation - see
our Article about cavity walls - click
here.
Your cavity may have been
filled with foam, polystyrene beads or Rockwool. Ask the Installer to
check for debris in the cavity - such debris allows moisture to move
from outside to inside, both above and below the damp proof course.
Rockwool may become soggy if enough dampness is trapped.
Ask for details of our Cavity
Cleaning Method.
For help
with types of damp proofing fluids and creams and where to use them
call our experts on 01626 872886 .
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was caused
by debris (mortar, sand, brick pieces, dirty wall ties, badly installed
cavity insulation) and then the moisture from raised external ground
levels or a water leak from a drain, a water main, a foul water pipe
can cross the cavity from the outside Otherwise the problem may be an
internal leak. . We will help you or your Builder/Plumber to find the
cause.
The solution is:
Clean out the cavity, lower
the ground level, or find and fix the leak(s), remove the indoor plaster
(if damaged) and fit our Mesh Membrane - then replaster. A Guaranteed
result - guaranteed for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Salt band appearing
above replastered areas - sand and cement backing
coat has concealed the fault
Salts bursting through paint
- Render or Tanking can drive this higher
Don't drive water up your
wall behind a waterproof layer - go to our Diagnosis page and check
your damp for yourself - save some money and time - click
here
For help
with types of damp proofing fluids and creams and where to use them
call our experts on 01626 872886 .
Floating
band of damp and salt emerging above renewed plaster on 'waterproofed'
render.
Note the perfect plaster
below the band - the problem has been concealed by the render backing
coat.
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was caused
by raised external ground levels or a water leak from a drain, a water
main, a foul water pipe or a central heating pipe. Using Tanking to
seal the wall simply causes the moisture to rise further. Even sand
and cement render may mask the problem, but eventually dampness will
appear above the renewed area. We will help you or your Builder/Plumber
to find the cause.
The solution is:
Lower the ground level, or
find and fix the leak(s), remove the indoor plaster (if damaged) and
fit our Mesh Membrane - then replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed
for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click here
Old
buildings are likely to need a chemical damp proof course - no,
they are not
Below - repaired plaster
over previous dampness,
This needs investigation
- buildings do not suffer sudden patches of damp proof course failure.
The answer is usually:
That the dampness was caused
by raised external ground levels or a water leak from a drain, a water
main, a foul water pipe or a central heating pipe. We will help you
or your Builder/Plumber to find the cause.
The solution is:
Lower the ground level, or
find and fix the leak(s), remove the indoor plaster (if damaged) and
fit our Mesh Membrane - then replaster. A Guaranteed result - guaranteed
for 20 years.
Mesh Membrane -
click herre
Rising damp can
be confirmed using a Damp Meter - not it cannot,
do not be fooled
Natural Rising damp is very,
very difficult to confirm. It requires the use of Laboratory Testing
and wall samples taken from multiple locations for each wall.
So when a local 'expert'
or 'specialist' using a so-called Damp Meter advises you that you have
Rising Damp and offers to inject and replaster the walls, ask them if
they have any qualifications and if they have read this book.
Quick
DIY Master Class in Dampness and Condensation - Click
here to buy the reprint.
This book was written by
Graham Coleman, who is a Lecturer in dampness and who has set many of
the examinations.
He confirms in his book that
a Damp Meter is not be be used to confirm that rising damp is present
and he also explains how proper tests can be performed.
In practice these tests are
rarely needed - simpler, less expensive options exist - but in 'legal'
Cases Graham is often involved as an Expert Witness.
Click
here to see our Dampness Guide for using a Damp Meter. - page 1
Click
here to see our Dampness Guide for using a Damp Meter. - page 2
Property Care
Association
We are long term members
of the PCA - The Property Care Association - the professional body for
the Damp Proofing industry and our Dampness Surveyors have over 50 years
of experience between them.
If you prefer to use a Contractor,
rather than our free advice service, then go to the PCA Website where
you can find the nearest qualified specialist companies. They should
give you the same information that we provide. If in doubt E Mail their
Reports to us for checking, before spending any money.
Link for the PCA - click
here.
Want Help
choosing a Contractor - E: Mail us at help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
Index
Page
| Privacy
Policy |
Returns Policy |
Contact
| Links
| Technical
References
OUR
SHOPPING PAGES
Property
Repair Systems
T: 01626 872886
E: Mail us help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
Site written by: David
Moore
David Moore, B.A. (Hons.),
C.T.I.S., C.R.D.S. Technical Author
Google+
Other Property Repair
Systems Sites:
www.boron.org.uk
- how to use Boron based insecticides/fungicides to treat timber rots
and insect attack
www.deck-treatment.co.uk
- how to treat patio decks and yacht decks
www.dryrot.biz
- how to kill Dry Rot in buildings
www.drywallandfloor.co.uk
- membranes for lining damp walls, floors, basements and cellars
www.epoxy-info.co.uk
- resins for repairing and sealing all types of masonry
www.fire-door-paint.co.uk
- upgrade doors to 30 minutes fire resistance
www.joist-repair.co.uk
- how to quickly repair joists and beams of any size
www.propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
- our Home Site
www.steel-fire-paint.co.uk
- treat steel with Intumescent Paint to provide fire protection
www.timber.org.uk
- systems of repair, with step by step methods
www.timber-repair.co.uk
- how to repair timber beams
www.woodworm-info.co.uk
- how to kill and prevent woodworm and death watch beetle
www.woodworm-expert-advice-forum.org.uk
- all your questions and our answers about woodworm treatment DIY
|