Do any of the questions
or bogus statements below affect you and your building? Contact us if
you need help with damp - 01626 872886 .
If you'd like to
send us the details of your problem complete our Dampness
questionnaire.
Want Help
choosing a Contractor - E: Mail us at help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
A
Damp Proofing Company or a Builder say that I need a Chemical Damp Proof
Course - are they correct?
No - not
unless they have carried out in depth Site Testing and then sent multiple
samples to a qualified Laboratory. Bearing in mind that damp proof courses
do not break down, the Company need to prove that the existing DPC has
been made ineffective and that the resultant dampness came from Natural
ground water. Such situations do exist, but they are very rare.
Does
Rising Damp really exist?
Yes, but
most dampness diagnosed as 'Rising Damp' is entirely man-made - it is
caused by raised ground levels, water leaks from pipes, overflowing
gutters, split downpipes - the list goes on. These problems are not
solved by installing a chemical or physical (plastic) damp proof course.
I have Damp on the
ground floor and I want to know why
Complete our Damp Questionnaire
and we will diagnose the fault. Photographs of the walls, indoors and
outside are also useful. If sending photos please limit each E Mail
to 10mb of Attachments - our Letterbox is limited to 10mb.
I had a chemical Damp
Proof Course installed but the damp problem is back again
This is not surprising -
it means that the original cause of the dampness was not found, merely
covered up. Complete our Damp Questionnaire and we'll help you to find
the underlying cause. Then we can give you a cure.
What causes a damp
proof course to be 'bridged'
Anything that covers it up
which is up against the wall - decking, steps, soil, tarmac - and anything
that reduces the drop from the damp proof course from the statutory
150mm (6 inches) to less, which allows rainwater splash up to penetrate
above the damp proof course.
How can internal walls
get damp
Not from Natural rising damp
- only from a water leak. A new chemical damp proof course will not
solve damp problems on an internal wall (both sides indoors), even with
replastering using a 'waterproof' render, or 'Tanking'.
Do I really need to
take off the plaster
If it is damaged - yes -
but if there is no damage it may dry out with some help. Damage includes
roughness, delamination causing the skim finish to fall off, pitting,
surface roughness and blistering. Drying out can be assisted using a
Dehumidifier (close all doors, vents and windows to the affected room).
May I skim over existing
plaster
The Builder's favorite fix
- Unibond and Skim! It only works if the walls are not contaminated
with 'salts' - and these cannot be seen with the naked eye and the walls
are dry. Otherwise don't risk it - ask us first.
My Replastered wall
did not dry out properly
Salt contamination, or dampness
is still present. This needs diagnosis. Complete our Dampness questionnaire.
I had my walls 'skimmed'
with new finish plaster - it now has damp patches again
Skimming over damp or 'salts'
will not work for long. Usually the builder or plasterer using Unibond
first, as a Primer, which makes the finish look perfect for a while.
Salt contamination, or dampness is still present. This needs diagnosis.
Complete our Dampness questionnaire.
My wall was Tanked,
but damp patches are back
Tanking products may not
dry properly if used over damp walls or salt contaminated walls. Tanking
should only be applied to dry, salt free walls below the level of the
damp proof course. Talk to us and send us some photos. We can help.
I had Cavity Insulation
installed and now I have a damp problem that wasn't there before
This is usually caused by
rubbish in the cavities, dirty wall ties, missing patches of insulation
(under-filled) or penetrating damp causing the insulation to pick up
moisture. Call back the Insulation Installer and ask for an examination
of the cavity, or call us.
My Chimney breast
walls are damp in patches
Usually caused by 'salts',
acids, resin and condensation coming from the chimney flue - it slowly
passes through the walls and eventually reaches the plaster. Only cured
by removing the plaster and fitting our Mesh Membrane - then you can
replaster with complete reliability.
The Council raised
my pavement - now my walls are damp and my floor is rotten - can I claim
from the Council?
Councils are frequently to
blame for raising road and pavement levels, breaking the Building Regulations
and ruining house walls, floors, skirting boards and plaster. They are
rarely pursued for rectification costs.
The underlying problem is
the transfer of dissolved 'salts' brought through the walls by a mixture
of rainwater splash up (raised exterior ground levels), historic penetrating
damp and multiple replastering - plastering adds water each time and
reactivates the salts. The salts come from the ground and the building
materials themselves.
The only answer is to add
a barrier layer against the wall that does not seal the wall (NOT Tanking)
- then you can safely replaster using normal Bonding and Finish on your
Membrane, which is a total vapour barrier. It does not require lime
plaster or sand and cement render.
We recommend Mesh
Membrane - this is a BBA tested and Certificated dimpled membrane
that creates a small cavity (3mm or 8mm), through which air from the
room is allowed to circulate. The air is allowed in via slightly lifted
skirting boards (5mm) and air holes into the ceiling void above. The
Membrane and plaster should be cut back to clear the floor by at least
20mm, to avoid picking up any residual damp from the wall.
We sell Kits specifically
tailored to each job - easy to fix, no waste.
It is vital that you have
the new, final surface above the French Drain set to at least 150mm
lower than your inside floor level (if solid concrete) to avoid ongoing
lateral penetration of dampness from rainwater splash. Ideally have
an Aco perimeter drain fitted, tightly sealed to the wall, (use our
Structural Pouring Grout) or otherwise lower the gravel surface to give
the splash up allowance.
See example of an Aco drain
type product here:
Example
of perimeter drainage
We can help you by supplying
a technical letter to send to your Council to support your claim for
repairs.
Property Care
Association
We are long term members
of the PCA - The Property Care Association - the professional body
for the Damp Proofing industry and our Dampness Surveyors have over
50 years of experience between them.
If you prefer to use a
Contractor, rather than our free advice service, then go to the PCA
Website where you can find the nearest qualified specialist companies.
They should give you the same information that we provide. If in doubt
E Mail their Reports to us for checking, before spending any money.
Link for the PCA - click
here.
If you'd like
to send us the details of your problem complete our Dampness
questionnaire.
Want Help
choosing a Contractor - E: Mail us at help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
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Site written by: David
Moore
David Moore, B.A. (Hons.),
C.T.I.S., C.R.D.S. Technical Author
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