How
to find water leaks - Free Technical Help - 01626 872886 .
Our experts
answer your call - discuss your building problem with a qualified Water
Leak expert.
Remember -
most damp in buildings is not 'natural' - it is caused by man-made maintenance
and construction errors, so no amount of so called Damp Proofing will
fix it.
If you'd like to send us the
details of your problem complete our Dampness
questionnaire.
Quick DIY
Master Class in Dampness and Condensation - become your own Expert
in 1 hour! Buy our "Dampness in Buildings" reprinted book by
the great expert Graham Coleman. A great read, short and to the point.
Click
here to buy the reprint.
E: Mail us
help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
Click
here to go to the top of this page
Why are leaks so
common
It is very common to find that
Mains Water pipes, both in the road and connecting to a property, have
leaks. Old Lead pipes are well known for developing pin holes, but sadly
the same can be said of both copper and plastic pipes.
In addition pipes that drain surface water from the roof often discharge
water directly into ground next to the house, or into drains that have
collapsed underground, or are blocked. Some of these types of pipes do
not go to proper drains at all - they discharge their water into pits
dug in the garden, filled with stones. These so-called 'soakaways' clog
up with soil with age and cause water to spread all around, making the
areas around properties prone to movement.
Symptoms may include:
1. Weeds, moss and lawns being very green even during a long Summer
2. Damp or salty patches on cellar or basement walls or floors
3. Liquid water in cellars or basements
4. Rotting timber suspended or 'floating' ground floors
5. Damp concrete floors
6. Damp rising up walls, starting at skirting board level
7. Fluffy, white Salts patches appearing indoors and outdoors
Why do Water Leaks cause
so much expense
Because when dampness appears
most property owners call a so-called Damp Proofing Company. They have
a total disinterest in water leaks and the sources of damp. They simply
take good money for addressing the wrong problem. A Chemical Damp Proof
Course is of no use at all if water leaks are to blame for the damp. Neither
is replastering, whether in sand and cement, Renovating Plaster or Lime.
Click
here to go to the top of this page
How to find your own Water
Leaks
Follow these instructions to
eliminate these as a cause of damp in the soil under your building or
water in your cellar/basement.
1. Mains Water Pipes
A. From the property
to the Stop Tap in the pavement
Firstly, find the Stop Tap
in the property (usually under the sink) and check that it will turn
properly - if not have it replaced. Then find the Water Supplier's metal
cover outside (usually in the pavement), clean around the edges with
a brush and lift the lid - this may require a screwdriver. Check the
Stop Tap for leaks and then check that it will turn properly. If it
is leaking or will not turn request a repair from your Water Supplier.
If you have a Water Meter
inside your property (usually under the sink in the kitchen) carry out
a preliminary test before you contact the Water Supplier: turn off everything
that uses water in the property and look at the Water Meter - the central
spinner and the number dials should not be moving. To double check that
no water is moving rest a long screwdriver on the side of the Meter
and place your ear on the end of the handle - can you hear the water
moving or the meter mechanism moving? If there is audible movement at
the Meter check again that everything is turned off in the property
and then call a Plumber to look for the leak. You may be covered by
your House Insurance.
If you have a Water Meter
outside your property (usually under the Stop Tap cover in the pavement)
carry out a preliminary test before you contact the Water Supplier:
turn off everything in the property and look at the Water Meter - the
central spinner and the number dials should not be moving. To double
check that no water is moving rest a long screwdriver on the side of
the Meter and place your ear on the end of the handle - can you hear
the water or the meter mechanism moving? If there is movement at the
Meter check again that everything is turned off in the property and
then call your Water Supplier's Leak Line to report the leak. You may
be covered by your House Insurance.
If you DO NOT have a Water
Meter call your Water Supplier's Leak Line to report the leak. Say that
you have damp and/or liquid water within your property and would like
an initial free water leak listening test. If you have liquid water
within the property request a Laboratory Test to identify the water
type - Mains Water, Sewage Water or Ground Water. You may be covered
by your House Insurance. The Water Supplier will tell you if the leak
is within your boundary, or if it falls into their area of responsibility,
outside of the property boundary.
Click
here to go to the top of this page
B. From Stop Tap in the pavement to the Water Main in the road
Leaks in the road are difficult
to diagnose. Look for damp patches in the pavement or tarmac in dry
weather, or excessive growth of weeds and moss. Report your concerns
to your Water Supplier.
Click
here to go to the top of this page
2. Surface Water Drain Pipes
A. Discharging to the
surface - no drain
This is usually bad for the
building, because the water makes its way down into the foundation earth
and can lead to subsidence or heave, depending on the soil type. Redesign
the pipework to carry the water away from the building, preferably into
a working, tested drain.
B. Discharge via a
drain to a 'soakaway' pit in the garden
This is usually bad for the
building, because when the hidden pipe is broken or collapses, or the
soakaway clogs the water makes its way down into the foundation earth
and can lead to subsidence or heave, depending on the soil type. To
find the pit you will need to feed some drains rods into the pipe to
establish the angle and distance from the property, or employ a Drains
Testing Company. Redesign the pipework to carry the water away from
the building, preferably into a working, tested drain, or test the pipe
to the 'soakaway' pit and then dig out the pit and re-lay.
C. Discharging via
a drain to a proper mains drain
A much better solution where
legal - check with your Local Council before diverting a drain into
the Main Public Drain. However, these drains can clog, crack, collapse
or have tree root damage. To test firstly find a manhole cover near
the property (it may have been built or covered over) and lift the cover.
Then pour water down the drain to see which pipe it emerges from within
the chamber. Now insert an expanding rubber bung into the pipe hole
(buy from a Builders Merchant or Plumbing Shop - check if 4 inch or
6 inch diameter) and check that it is tight. Pour water into the drain
until full and check that the bung is still tight enough and not weeping
at the edges. Leave for at least 4 hours and then check the level in
the drain - it should not have changed. If the water level has gone
down employ a Drains Testing Company to investigate. You may be covered
by your House Insurance.
A Dye Test can be carried out to see if the water or damp inside your
property could be coming from the drain. Buy some harmless Drains Testing
Dye from a Builder's Merchant or On-line and add to the drain. The colour
may appear indoors after 1 to 2 weeks.
Click
here to go to the top of this page
3. Foul Water Pipes - sewage
A. If your large vertical sewer pipe is outdoors - usually on
the back or side of the property
This position means that your sewage and grey water pipes all pass through
an outside wall of the property from the toilets, sinks, baths and showers
directly into the vertical 'stink' pipe and then down into the ground
outdoors.
At that point the pipe has to turn at ninety degrees through a bend
to progress towards the sewer and the joints are therefore outside the
building, but close to the foundations. These joints are not reliable
and often wash out.
To test firstly find a manhole cover near the property in the pathway
or garden (it may have been built or covered over) and lift the cover.
Then pour water down the a sink to see which pipe it emerges from within
the chamber. Now insert an expanding rubber bung into the pipe hole
(buy from a Builders Merchant or Plumbing Shop - check if 4 inch or
6 inch diameter) and check that it is tight. Pour water into a ground
floor toilet until full and check that the bung is tight and not weeping
at the edges.
Make sure that all the occupants are told not to flush any toilets or
use any of the sinks, showers or baths.
Leave for at least 4 hours and then check the level in the toilet -
it should not have changed. If the water level has gone down employ
a Drains Testing Company to investigate. You may be covered by your
House Insurance.
Click
here to go to the top of this page
B. If your large vertical
pipe is indoors - usually boxed-in in the kitchen
This position means that your sewage and grey water pipes all pass from
the toilets, sinks, baths and showers directly into the vertical 'stink'
pipe and then down into the ground under your property.
At that point the pipe has to turn at ninety degrees through a bend
to progress towards the sewer and the joints are therefore still directly
under the building, well within the foundation perimeter. These joints
are not reliable and often wash out.
To test firstly try to find a manhole cover near the property in the
pathway or garden (it may have been built or covered over) and lift
the cover. Then pour water down the a sink to see which pipe it emerges
from within the chamber. Now insert an expanding rubber bung into the
pipe hole (buy from a Builders Merchant or Plumbing Shop - check if
4 inch or 6 inch diameter) and check that it is tight. Pour water into
a ground floor toilet until full and check that the bung is tight and
not weeping at the edges.
Make sure that all the occupants are told not to flush any toilets or
use any of the sinks, showers or baths.
Leave for at least 4 hours and then check the level in the toilet -
it should not have changed. If the water level has gone down employ
a Drains Testing Company to investigate. You may be covered by your
House Insurance.
Click
here to go to the top of this page
Index
Page
| Privacy
Policy |
Returns Policy |
Contact
| Links
| Technical
References
Property
Repair Systems
T:
01626 872886
E: Mail us help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
Site written by: David
Moore
David Moore, B.A. (Hons.),
C.T.I.S., C.R.D.S. Technical Author
Google+
Other Property Repair
Systems Sites:
www.boron.org.uk
- how to use Boron based insecticides/fungicides to treat timber rots
and insect attack
www.deck-treatment.co.uk
- how to treat patio decks and yacht decks
www.dryrot.biz
- how to kill Dry Rot in buildings
www.drywallandfloor.co.uk
- membranes for lining damp walls, floors, basements and cellars
www.epoxy-info.co.uk
- resins for repairing and sealing all types of masonry
www.fire-door-paint.co.uk
- upgrade doors to 30 minutes fire resistance
www.joist-repair.co.uk
- how to quickly repair joists and beams of any size
www.propertyrepairsystems.co.uk
- our Home Site
www.steel-fire-paint.co.uk
- treat steel with Intumescent Paint to provide fire protection
www.timber.org.uk
- systems of repair, with step by step methods
www.timber-repair.co.uk
- how to repair timber beams
www.woodworm-info.co.uk
- how to kill and prevent woodworm and death watch beetle
www.woodworm-expert-advice-forum.org.uk
- all your questions and our answers about woodworm treatment DIY
|